Sunday, December 10, 2017

Coatigans for the Win!


Hello! I'm back again with another quick share--Seamwork Mag's Jill Coatigan.  I haven't made a lot of Seamwork patterns since signing up for the subscription, although I do have a couple earmarked--in particular, I'd like to try the Leonora mini skirt at some point. I just wish they provided a bit more variation. For example, they never do a raglan style

 This winter, I've been wanting to make a new coat to offer some variety from wearing my black Clare Coat all the time, but I didn't feel like taking on all the work that's involved in making a coat--the closures, lining, sleeve fitting, etc. I've also been wanting to work with boiled wool and have been wanting to make a  simple shell (without a lining) that isn't too heavy since I don't need it to be super warm.  So when Seamwork's Jill popped into my inbox, I was ready to dive in right away.

It also didn't hurt that the absolutely gorgeous model was selling the hell out of it.


Besides not being too warm, it's very much a crossover garment, which is nice when you live in an area that doesn't have clearly defined seasons.  I also like that I can wear it with jeans on the weekend, but it also looks great over my work clothes. I wear my Blackwood cardigans a lot, and it's nice to have an outerwear garment that covers the length of my sweaters.







Before getting into the sizing deets, I want to quickly talk about this fabric cuz I love it. It's a boiled wool/rayon blend, and it was SO fun to work with. It doesn't fray, so you don't need to finish the seams unless you want to. It has lots of built-in body (i.e., without interfacing), is soft against the skin with a slightly spongey feel and a bit of stretch, and the stitches sink right in. It's a great choice for a casual, unstructured coat. I downloaded the pattern the day it dropped and went to Fabric Outlet the following Saturday to catch the last day of their 40% off everything sale. Normally, I haaate driving to the Mission and dealing with all the traffic, but I really wanted to make this in boiled wool and knew I'd find a good price on coating there. I initially had grey in mind, but when I saw this aubergine, I knew I'd found my fabric. The only problem was that the pattern in my size calls for 4.5 yards, and there was only 3 and 3/8 left on the bolt. I crossed my fingers and bought it anyway. Cutting it flat (as opposed to on the fold) helped tremendously, and I ended up with plenty of fabric. Cost was around $20 per yard minus 40% off.

Here are the deets:
  • Size XL. I haven't gotten the sizing down yet for Seamwork patterns yet. If I had access to a time machine, I would definitely make a large instead. You can see that the sleeves look more like a dropped shoulder. Even on the model, it falls a bit more past her shoulders than the line drawing indicates. It doesn't bother me too much, though, since it's a look that's on trend right now. Outerwear is tricky. I didn't want it to be huge, but I did want to make sure I could comfortably wear it over layers. 
  • I used an old sheet to make a muslin of the front and back. Had I also muslined the sleeves, I might have known to size down. Ah well, shoulda woulda coulda...
  • I shortened the length of the coat 5" at the shorten line and the sleeves 2".
  • Shortening the coat length threw off the pocket positions a bit. I raised them a few inches but may raise them  an additional 2" since my fingers can't quite reach the bottom. 
  • Speaking of pockets, I really love the angled shape. Such a nice detail. 
  • Generally, I'm not crazy about shawl necklines (they look too much like bathrobes to me), so if I were ever to make another version, I would like to draft a notched lapel collar instead. 
  • Also, even though the seams don't need to be finished, the seam where the facing attaches to the back neckline would look much nicer if it was bound. It's three layers of fabric after all. Ditto for the sleeves.
Overall, a fun pattern that satisfied my desire for a quickie coat. I didn't get everything right size-wise, but it's nice to have a new piece of outerwear and I love the color. I've been wearing it nonstop despite the fact that it's been an unseasonably warm December so far.

I hope you're having a great weekend. We survived the annual adventure of wrestling a tree to get it home and up three flights of stairs, and now the decorating fun begins. This may be my last apparel project for 2017 as I have a number of gifts I want to make. I'm feeling extra crafty this year. 

Thank you for reading and have a great week!

Thursday, December 7, 2017

Viva Toaster 2!


Hello and Happy Holidays! I love this time of year, but man is it hectic. I hope you're finding time to enjoy hanging with loved ones amid the holiday rush-rush. Speaking of rush-rush, this is just a quickie to share a (coincidentally) quick-to-make pattern.

So I made a fun little Toaster 2 by Sew House Seven, a pattern company I've been dying to try. I love their vibe. Chic but also so very wearable for us ordinary humans. Since this is a new-to-me pattern company, I bought an inexpensive ponte from Fabric Outlet as a wearable muslin. (I really don't know how else to experiment with new knit patterns except for trying with inexpensive fabric first.) The thing is, I really dig this olive green color. It goes so well with all my clothes but isn't as boring to sew as solid black.

The style of the Toaster 2, along with this fab color, feels very mod to me. It's an aesthetic that I'm really drawn to because it reminds me of growing up in in the 80s and being in love with all things mod. Now, here's where I have to warn you that my modeling pics are pretty much useless. I was going on and on to Beej about how I thought the cut was very mod and cool, and he offhandedly commented, "It's super cute; you look like Ann Margaret in Viva Las Vegas." See below.


Don't worry, I'm not delusional. I fully realize that I do not look like a twenty-something ingenue. Having said that, if you ever meet a person who looks at you in that light and makes you feel that beautiful, hold that person tight and don't ever let go.

Anyway, in my modeling poses I did a bunch of silly dance moves in the spirit of Viva Las Vegas. They don't give you the best idea of fit, etc., but please know that I had a lot of fun.

The deets:

  • Size XXL. Despite following the measurements chart, there is tons of ease. I wanted a loose fit, but I think I can achieve that (even without an FBA) if I size down to XL. Also, this would help with the broad shoulders, although I could also do a narrow shoulder adjustment.
  • The sleeves are very long, like orangutan long. Of course, I've got T-rex arms, so maybe some folks fall happily in the middle. (Note, I'm only 5'2") I shortened the arms by 4"
  • Almost every review I've read mentioned that the bodice is a bit too short. I lengthened the front by 1 and 1/8 inch as a precaution. I liked the resulting front length, but next time I would lengthen a bit more to match the back--i.e., not have it be high/low. The difference now is so slight; it should be the same or markedly different so as not to look like a mistake. 
  • The cheap olive ponte I raved about is a good weight for this pattern. If I remember correctly, cost was around $10 or $12 a yard. I bought 2 yards and easily had enough fabric because it was 60" wide.
  • As many bloggers have noted, this comes together VERY quickly. The mock turtle is fun and quite easy to construct; the side split turns out nice and crisp. I used my sewing machine for the whole thing because I was working with a stable ponte and the split hem and mock turtle need a bit more finesse than I'm can achieve with my serger. 
  • Overall, a cracker of a pattern. I can see why it's so popular. 
Now for the show. Feel free to hum along.


Thank you for reading and have a fantastic week!




Sunday, November 12, 2017

The Battle of the Granny Pants


Hello! Hope you're having a fab weekend. In an effort to prepare for winter, also known as tights-wearing season, I've sewn up a couple of high waisted undies. Since my heyday was in the '90s, it's taken me a while to come around to high waisted underwear. I tend to think of them as granny pants. But, you know, I've finally come around. They're the best underwear to wear under tights for a smooth line, and they're actually really pretty and feminine--even if the size makes me giggle. It's a mystery to me how something so enormous can also be so adorable.

I already have the Ohhh Lulu Ava pattern and I love it, but since I recently discovered Evie La Luve and she offers a free high-waisted undie pattern (Maxine), I thought it would be fun to compare and contrast.


As you can see, the Ava has a rounder, more vintage, curvy look, while Maxine has straighter lines and a higher leg. Both are equally comfortable and patterns are in similar size ranges. They also both have terrific tutorials on youtube. Here's a link to Sarah Norwood of Ohhh Lulu's full tutorial for the Ava pants. Not only do I love her technique for sewing the foldover elastic (i.e., not sewing in the round), but notice how she clips her crotch curves by folding in half. Because she sews lingerie all day, she's come up with some really great shortcuts and tips. Evie La Luve has some great tips as well. Her video for sewing encased crotch seams is so clear and easy and can be applied to so many other patterns.

Overall, my preference is for Ava, but I think the Maxine pattern is cute, too. With the high legs, this pattern would look great underneath a body suit. Also, it's free, so why wouldn't you want to try it? The patterns are different enough that there's room for both in your collection, I think. Just a few details to note:
  • Size for both was largest (extra large) with 43" hip. 
  • I'm never sure about the height and length of my zigzag stitch, but after experimenting quite a bit, I think I like 3.5/2.5 best. 
  • My serger blade is getting dull, so instead of serging through elastic (or paying for a new blade), I think I'll start sewing up my side seams with a stretch stitch. As an added bonus, I'll have more control that way.
  • Fabric for Ava was a soft, stretchy knit from Fabric Outlet. I usually use scraps for making underwear, but lately I've been exploring my ultra-feminine, lingerie-addict side with florals and lace, so I bought a half yard of a knit I would never wear as a tee shirt or dress. Had enough leftover to make a pair of Frankie pants (see bottom pic), by Evie La Luve. 
  • Fabric for Maxine was an old Anthro top. I keep a dresser with old, ill-fitting clothes made from interesting fabrics for just such an occasion. I love how the placement turned out and the slightly hippy-dippy look. They're my Brady Bunch granny pants.




Well, that's all I can think to say about my new underpants. Thanks so much for reading my blog and have a fantastic week!


Sunday, November 5, 2017

Fringe Blouse with Elephants


Hello,  hope you're having a good weekend. It's Sunday night, and I am just enjoying the last few hours of wind down time before preparing for another busy week. Fall is really here, and while there are peaceful moments and the wonderful golden light to enjoy, it also feels like the pace will change very quickly and we will all go into overdrive with holidays stuff. But for now, our home is quiet and smells nice because Beej is making pot roast for dinner, so I'll just enjoy the moment and take some time to tell you about my new favorite top.


Before I get into the details of the pattern, I need to talk about this fabric. It was such an exciting find for me because elephants are one my things. If you were to look around my apartment, you would notice fairly quickly all my elephant tchotchkes and elephant artwork, including one of my favorite objects--a huge, hand painted elephant silk scarf from Bali hanging above my sewing machine. So when I saw this rayon crepe elephant print, in totally wearable black and white I might add, I momentarily thought I was Oprah and snatched it up and headed straight to the cutting table without even looking at the price tag.  Fortunately, I was at Fabric Outlet rather than Britex, so it was only around $12 a yard. Whew!

So, onto the pattern. This is the Fringe dress/blouse from a new-to-me pattern company called Chalk and Notch. I've mentioned in a number of recent blog posts how I've been trying to find just the right day-dress/top/tunic silhouette. Something not body-con, but not a frumpy potato sack, with the right amount of ease, loose around the waist, not too low cut, age-appropriate, etc. This is very much what I had in mind. 


I really like the shape and the way I feel wearing it. I'm outside of the size range and therefore had to make some modifications. I also made a muslin for a change-- a real one, not a wearable one! I went for the sleeves on version B instead of gathers, so I can easily wear it under a cardigan. The fit around the neck and shoulders is really great--no gaping when I sit or between the buttons.


So here are my fitting deets:

  • Size 18 with a 1.25" FBA. 
  • Didn't sew darts at all. The instructions recommend that you decrease the width of the darts if you need more room at the waist. I wanted more room for shifting weight when I'm sitting and I also just wanted a looser look. That said, I think I will reintroduce a narrow waist dart for my next version for just a teensy bit of shaping.
  • Added 3" to the width of the peplum to make sure that the gathering wasn't too sparse. I think I'll make it 4" next time. 
  • You absolutely have to make this in a fabric with lots of drape. 
  • Chalk and Notch had an interesting tip to use interfacing designed for knits (even though it's a woven garment) to avoid a stiff placket. I love these kinds of tips that challenge conventional wisdom because I'm very much a rule follower and would never find this out on my own.  
  •  I'm definitely planning another (the dress length), and I'd like to try out the other collar. 
Well, that pot roast is calling my name so I'm going to sign off.  Thanks so much for reading and have a great week. 



Saturday, September 30, 2017

Kalle and Fen in the Big Easy


Do locals refer to New Orleans as "the Big Easy" or "Nola'? I know that here in San Francisco people don't really say "Frisco." Maybe it's the same thing. Anyway, whatever name you want to call it New Orleans is a magical town, full of lovely people and amazing music, art, and food. Beej and I just returned from our first visit and absolutely loved it. Adjusting to the heat and humidity was definitely a challenge for us, though, which is why I made a few things that were suitable for warmer weather but that will still be appropriate for life at home.

I'll start with the Kalle shirt.

Man I love this pattern! The blue popover version I made in August is one of those magical garments that always makes me feel fantastic when I put it on. So it was a no brainer to make another, this time with the full placket. I should note that even though I'm wearing it open, it buttons up just fine. I'm afraid that the fabric I chose--a rayon linen voile in ivory by Blackbird Fabrics--is just too sheer to wear without a camisole. Since I didn't have a white camisole, I wore it over a chambray Ogden Cami. (BTW, I had an idea while on vacation to try hacking the Ogden straps and soft v-neck, which are just perfect, with the Cashmerette Springfield. With the better fitting bust of the Springfield, it seems like it would be the best of both worlds. Hope to try that soon.)

Next up is a pattern that I really struggled to make work for me--the Fen by Fancy Tiger Crafts.


I've been obsessed with day dresses for a while now. I was never much of a dress person before I started sewing, but these days I really like casual dresses that make getting dressed so fast and easy and seem so effortless. I became fixated on the Fen because of the loose shape and casual vibe and went through a number of steps and adjustments. Unfortunately, I don't think it's quite right for me so I'll be moving on to another dress pattern. I think the wide neck and shoulders of the bodice and lack of fullness in the skirt emphasize my top heavy/inverted triangle shape. On the bright side, it was very comfortable for walking around in 90 degree weather. Also, the color is gorgeous, and I think it will get a lot of wear over leggings this winter with my black Blackwood Cardigan. I think a dark, close-fitting cardigan will help to visually bring in the wide neck.

In the interest of learning and recording my adjustments, here are the details:

  • Size 18 with 1.5" FBA. 
  • Changed dress neckline to V-neck by tracing V from top pattern piece onto dress bodice.
  • Made a facing for the v-neck. The pattern calls for binding. 
  • Shortened skirt by 1.5 inches.
  • Straightened skirt hem. Sara, who made an absolutely gorgeous Fen, posted how to do this here
  • Hemmed sleeves as instructed but shortened skirt hem--1/4" fold fold followed by 1" fold.
  • I actually made a wearable muslin in an inexpensive challis and narrowed the v-neck on the second version by 1/4". Should have narrowed even more. 
  • Fabric is a stretch linen from Blackbird Fabrics. I think it's gone now. One thing to note about stretch linen is that it's not quite as cool as other linens. I assume this has to do with the synthetic content that gives it stretch. It would have probably been more suitable for pants. 

One final note about vacation clothes before I start dreaming about coats and sweaters: the Vogue 1247 Rachel Comey mini I made way back in 2015 deserves an honorable mention because it's the perfect travel garment. Not only did it go with everything and takes up very little space in my suitcase, but those inseam pockets, which admittedly look a bit like a cafe apron, were perfect for my phone and glasses when we visited NOMA. I'm wearing it here with Ignatius Reilly from "A Confederacy of Dunces"--one of the funniest fictional characters ever.


Well, that's all I have today. Back to reality on Monday, but until them I'm still in vacation mode. Thank you very much for reading and have a fantastic weekend!



Sunday, September 10, 2017

The World's Easiest Tee: Hey June Santa Fe



Hello! A more accurate title for this post would be "How I Screwed Up the World's Easiest Tee." (And now I can hear my mother's voice in my head, "Say 'messed up.' It sounds nicer.") So, the recent spate of hot weather, along with an impending vacation, led me to notice that I desperately need some short sleeve tops. I recalled the Hey June Santa Fe as quick and easy, with the kind of swingy shape that I like to wear, and decided to knock out some quick tees.

I've actually made the Santa Fe a couple of times before, incorrectly that is, and even blogged a velvet Anthro-knock off version here.  My last version was a little too big, so I decided to cut down to a 1X at the top, grading to the 2X under the sleeve. I also went for view C instead of view F, which is a raglan. I love sewing up raglans, and love the fit of my Claire coat, but the last few raglan tees have looked/felt sloppy on me.

Even though version C is the world's easiest tee, I decided to make it even easier by eliminating the center seam (there's a line in the pattern to cut for this-- no measuring, Yay!) and cutting both front and back on the fold--ideal for striped fabric.

Since I was going down a size, I made this practice version in some inexpensive green knit from Fabric Outlet. I think because I was dealing with something as simple as a tee--a type of garment I've made many, many times before--I didn't look at the instructions carefully. However, I did have the instructions open and when it was time to add the sleeve bands noticed the illustration which showed the band being sewn to the wrong side of the garment. I assumed this was a mistake and disregarded the instructions.


I was even going to post on instagram, "Hey, be warned! There's an error here." Yeah, glad I didn't do that. Later, when assembling my second version (the magenta and black stripe), I revisited the instructions to confirm that the illustration was incorrect, but this time I actually turned to the next page only to find that the illustration wasn't a mistake at all. Turns out, the sleeves are cuffs meant to be turned up, which is why they're sewn to the wrong side first. Also, the neck is not a band but rather a binding. Subtle but important distinctions here.


Since I had done some pretty decent stripe matching, there was no way in hell I was going to unpick my serged threads and change course for the magenta/black version. I can live with the sleeve bands; they're actually more cardigan-friendly anyway. For the neckline, I used some black ribbing that I keep in my stash because I love, love, love tees with ribbed bands. Seriously, I would keep ribbing in more colors if I thought I could accurately match it with my tee shirt knits. But as I mentioned previously, the neck pattern piece is a binding piece instead of a band, so I lopped off about 15% (I just eyeballed it) and turned it into a band neckline. The instructions offer this as an option.

For the navy/gray version, I went with the instructions as written. I really like how the cuff turned out.



I did, however, make one tiny change to the neckline. Instead of having the binding show on the front of the garment, I sewed it to the right side, turned the binding inward, and topstitched it down. I made this decision based on a distaste for striped necklines. When it comes to neck bands, or bindings for that matter, I never know what to do with striped fabrics. Do you go with stripes running the same way and risk that it might look uneven or interrupt the pattern and scale? Or do you cut the neck piece so that the stripes run in the opposite direction? I don't really like either option and tend to avoid it at all cost. (That's why the Mandy boat neck tee is one of my favorite patterns for stripes. )


Here's another reason why this is the World's Easiest Tee (even when sewed together correctly): With a wide neckline and very wide hem, there's no need for a double needle. I simply lengthened my stitch slightly and sewed a straight stitch for both. I used fusible binding tape to stabilize the hem but didn't need it for the neckline. Also, even though this pattern has a swing shape, it's not so swingy (like the the Closet Case Patterns Ebony) that stripe matching is difficult--even for less-than-fastidious sewers such as myself. 

One last note about the striped fabric. Both are from Blackbird Fabrics (I feel like Blackbird is achieving cult status or something. It's definitely becoming quite a habit for me.) Both color ways are comprised of 66% bamboo rayon, 28% cotton, and 6% spandex. Whenever I touch these knits, the word that keeps popping into my brain is luscious. They are soft, stretchy, opaque without being too thick, and have excellent drape. And they're just...luscious. 

I'll leave you with a modeling photo. The fit is oversized, and probably not for everyone, but I think I'll wear the hell out of both of them. Thanks so much for reading and have a wonderful week. 


Monday, September 4, 2017

Underneath It All: Claudia, Frankie, and Celeste



Hey there! Happy Labor Day to those in the U.S. We had a heatwave for a few days in San Francisco with temperatures reaching 104 degrees. No bueno in a small, top floor apartment without AC.  I'm thankful for the inevitable fog that's cooled us down now and will try to refrain from complaining about foggy summers in the future. While I impatiently waited for a white rayon linen voile to arrive so that I can make another Kalle shirt, I made up some frilly knickers. You would think that with my many posts about making underwear, I wouldn't have anything new to say. Well, my friend, you would be wrong. I even had to draft a rough outline so that I could remember all of my links, tutorials, and random musings.

In the past, my underwear making has been more closely tied to frugality and practical purposes. I find having too many fabric scraps overwhelming, so I often make up a pair of undies right after a knit project since both machines are already threaded with matching colors and the correct needles. In fact, I'm so good about using up my scraps that sometimes when I'm in an underwear-making mood (more on that in a minute), I have to find fabric by cutting up old jersey tops and failed/unworn sewing projects like I did here.

Recently I found myself between projects in just such a mood. As usual, I didn't have a lot of large-enough scraps, but I had picked up some stretch lace at Fabric Outlet and decided to focus less on practicality and more on pretty. To my delight, I also discovered a new pattern in my stash that I'd forgotten about.  Then, while looking at sewing tutorials online, I discovered a new lingerie pattern maker. So many discoveries on a Saturday.


First up are the Claudia Hipster Panties, by Ohhh Lulu. It's a super cute pattern. The finished result always looks so much bigger than RTW, but then you put them on and they fit great. I love that you can use lace for the back and the sweet, feminine shape. For the fuschia pair, I cut up a tee that I never wear in a lovely bamboo rayon. The white pair is made from a stretch knit (poly and rayon, I think) I had initially purchased to line a long-abandoned knit project. I covered the middle piece with sheer lace, dabbing a little with a fabric glue stick and then basting together. They were starting to look a little bridal, so I trimmed with black elastic.

Whenever I make undies, I want to make a million pairs. Not exactly like assembly line style, more like I want to spend hours and hours experimenting and then throw them all on my bed and admire them. (Kind of like in heist movies, or when people hit a big jackpot when gambling, and they throw all the money on the bed and roll around in it.) I didn't actually roll around in my undies, but I did gaze admiringly. 



These are made with the Ohhh Lulu Celeste pattern. I used the free version. I only had a little of the fuschia bamboo rayon and one maroon scrap, so I experimented with mesh lace for the back. They turned out so cute, and I was so happy that I had randomly bought some stretch lace. Sewing bloggers talk a lot about sewing with intent and out-of-control stashes, but sometimes it's really nice to have a collection to play with when the mood strikes you. As for laundering, I was concerned that the mesh would fall apart immediately, but so far they've held up well. I wash them inside a lingerie bag so they don't get too manhandled in the main wash. I've also kept them out of the dryer.

When I blogged about the Celeste undies before, I mentioned discovering a treasure trove of underwear-making youtube videos. In fact, I'm reposting this video about sewing leg elastic that rocked my world. This time I discovered videos by a new-to-me lingerie pattern maker--Evie La Luve. Her aesthetic is similar to Ohhh Lulu, and she has a ton of helpful tutorials. Here's a link to a free high-waist undie if you want to check her out. I decided to try the Frankie pants. They have a few cute lace overlay pattern pieces and include instructions for a multitude of variations. I made an unblogged practice pair out of an old jersey top, wore them all day, and found them to be very comfortable. (BTW, I made the largest size for all patterns mentioned in this blog post. Ohhh Lulu recently expanded her size range to XXL (43" hip size). I'm hoping that we'll see that trend expand to become more inclusive.)


The neon lace pair are lined with the ivory poly I mentioned previously. They feel a little like swimsuit bottoms with the double layer. I had to try. It's so easy to experiment when the projects are on such a small scale.

The main thing I want to say about these knickers is this: Enclosed crotch seams. Total game changer. Here's a link to her very excellent and clear video on how to enclose crotch seams. It's similar to the burrito method in shirt making but even easier. The bottom photo shows another pair from the back view. They were sewn from an old, well-loved and well-worn, Anthro tank that had shrunk up over time.


I thought a lot about the colors I'm drawn to and the notion of indoor/outdoor and seen/unseen clothes while I made these. The clothes I choose to wear on the outside are very different from my underwear palette. I would never wear neon lace on the outside, but underneath it's so appealing to me. At some point, I'd like to explore this aspect of my personal aesthetic further by making some colorful pajamas and a luxurious robe/kimono.

If you like making underwear, I would suggest keeping a box of elastic, lace, colorful and interesting fabric scraps, and stretch mesh to play with. Let yourself go crazy and choose colors that you might not choose for a top or dress. At the end of the day, this sewing thing shouldn't feel like a chore; it should be fun.

Thanks so much for reading and have a great week!